update

Did you get engaged for Christmas....call us to help you plan your wedding....also more from Dresden and Prague

A day of Observation

My first destination is Gedenksttte Munchner Platz a museum dedicated to the resistance against dictatorships in Germany and the abuses of the legal system perpetrated under the Nazi regime and the Soviet occupation.  It is located in the Georg Schumann Building, at the Dresden University of Technology which used to be the District Courthouse.  It was very stark to be in an area that includes an execution yard and death row.  

                                 

This museum is located about 30 minutes from the Neustadt and there is a noticeable change in the architecture.  The landscape begins to resemble the "typical" East German state run structures.  The change in the architecture and the heavy feeling I have from the museum have me thinking...what is the history of this city?......what happened during World War II?...what have the people on the tram next to me seen since the reunification of Germany?......what was it like in Dresden post 1945 and pre 1990?  

This is the short history via wikipedia.......Dresden has a long history as the capital and royal residence for the Electors and Kings of Saxony, who for centuries furnished the city with cultural and artistic splendour. The city was completely destroyed by the controversial Allied aerial bombing towards the end ofWorld War II. The impact of the bombing and 40 years of urban development during the East German socialist era have considerably changed the face of the city. Some restoration work has helped to reconstruct parts of the historic inner city, including the Katholische Hofkirche, the Semperoper and the Dresdner Frauenkirche. Since the German reunification in 1990, Dresden has regained importance as one of the cultural, educational, political and economic centres of Germany.[citation needed]  Here is the link if you would like to read the full entry.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dresden

Note, while wandering the halls of the Georg Schumann Building, at the Dresden University of Technology I find an advertisement for a Google job fair.  This reminded me that google is a very technical tool that I take for granted.  My next stop is Deutsches Hygiene Museum located on the edge of a large park called Grosser Garten.  It is purpose is to provide a dialogue between science and society, art and culture.  It was interesting enough but I felt a little pricey at 7 euro.

Next I walked the lane at Grosser Garten to Permoser IM Palais......The home of a statue gallery.  It is a beautiful building but it is closed for the season.  Check out this picture...... of the outside.  Note for lunch I had a hard roll sandwich with salami, leeks and tomato, dessert was a beautiful orange petit fours.  I am still amazed by the bread here in Germany!

I spend the rest of my afternoon walking the Garten and then catch the #13 tram home.  I see such a mix of culture.  Take for instance this light pole….it looks left over from the Soviet time here is Dresden. 

           and then there is this fountain…all mosaic                                                                                                      

    the “state run “looking  housing verses the VW manufacturing plant

 

I guess every city has its contradictions and today I noticed them in Dresden.  Tomorrow I plan to venture to more “traditional” museums and get ready for our trip to Prague.  

All my best,

Jill

Around the town

My first task today was to get our train tickets to Praha...yes that how Prague is spelled here.  Which presented my first challenge.   Next challenge there are two tram stops that go to the main train station.  I decide to follow a girl with the roller bag.  Score, I am at the main train station and I see a "bank" of  self serve DB BAHN  ticket dispensers but I would like to speak to someone to confirm that Praha is in fact Prauge.  I enter the DB BAHN office to find a set-up similar to a DMV or passport office in the states.  I was told to take a number and wait.  My number was 1512 and  1485 was just called.....this is going to be a long story.  As time slowly moves forward I become brave and decide to try the self serve option.....still keeping my number in case I need help.  The kiosk is super easy to navigate, I am still not sure I am getting a ticket to the correct place but I bravely move forward. thought the process and in the end have 4 items printed that look like tickets.  Hum....did I get what I really need?  I look up and see the DB BAHN service providers are on 1510 so I continue to wait and when my number appears I go to the window to confirm that I have two ticket to Prague  for 24-12-2010.  I have completed my first task of the day.  Now I wander back to the the Alt Market to pick up some last minute gifts for friends and to get some more of that lovely chocolate covered fruit on a stick.  I am just amazed at how fresh the strawberries are......where did they get such great strawberries?  I also get the name of the restruard we enjoyed on Saturday...I believe it is called Sachsisch-Bohmisches Bierhaus, here is a linkhttp://www.altmarktkeller-dresden.de/  Keeping in the food vein....for lunch I decide on a Kartoffelpuffer with apple sauce....which is a potato pancake.  As I walked toward the tram stop I notice the whole Advent market is gone....wow the square has a whole different look now.  Check it out....

I change plans and decide to see the inside of this beautiful building.  
Wow!  it is impressive and come to find out it was destroyed in the February 1945 bombing and laid in ruin until the renovation was completed in 2005.  It was said that the pile of ruble was covered in overgrown roses. Such a lovely thought. 


My next task is tour Schloss Eckberg Hotel and Restaurant .....except I did not take the name of the "castle" with me...all I know is I need to take the #11 tram to one of two stops.   As I ride the tram I am getting a little worried as the area is getting much more residential.....but I press on..... upon getting off the tram I notice a hole in the wall.  Literally a doorway in this huge wall and a "sign" that has a picture of people sitting outside enjoying food and beverages.  So I take a chance and move forward.....I am greeted with a beautiful snow covered path through the most peaceful forest.  I reach the building, "read" the name and determine it is not my originally target.....but as "castles" go it will do.  Check out the these pictures....

View from the the back terrace. 

Ever diligent I decide to set out up the hill to find the Schloss Eckberg castle....even though I did not know at the time that was what I was looking for.......I walk back the snowy path to the main road and walk toward what I think is my original target.  My determination is rewarded.....It is a beautiful place!  I am going to create an album on our facebook page please check it out.....http://www.facebook.com/pages/Boutique-Affair/108388402545706

One funny note....as I made my way back to my hotel.  A gentlemen on the street behind me is talking on his cell...he says in the Queen's English " Yea the taxi just dropped me here.  He did not understand a word I said....I am just going to wander around and hope to find a place to buy cigarettes"  I turn to him and say go back two blocks there is grocery store on the left.  He has should a revealed look on his face.....then he asks...can I buy Vodka there too....and I reassure him that he can.  Who would have thought me help somebody else find something in Dresden!  I am now off to checkout several of the Dresden museums.  I will give a full report tomorrow!

All my best,
Jill

Friday night in the markets……and other weekend adventures

The markets take on a whole different feel on Friday night!  The amount of people grows exponentially.    I was simply amazed by the number of people and how more festive the mood become over my daytime visits.  The Gluhwein was flowing and I soon discovered a two new treats.  The first comes from this stand.  

The loose translation is hot fruit brandy and liquors.  I highly recommend having a Schoko – Chili which is a chocolate and chili warm shot of goodness!  The second is Puncho which I think is a gingerbread punch….but please note it has lots of chunks and people spit them out as needed.  spend several hours enjoying the energy of the market and then venture to Aussere Neustadt which is quickly becoming my favorite spot in Dresden.  We hit the Lebowski , Zile and Jim Beams which promises American football on Sunday.   We wake up Saturday morning to a very strange sight is the sky….the sun!  It has stopped snowing for the moment!  We bundle up tight as it is colder now that the snow has stopped and take the #3 tram to the market.  Here is a picture of the passage away between markets; the area to the left is a painting that is just breath taking and illustrates the Procession of Princes.  I also learn that the area where the Renaissance market is located was the form home of the royal stables.  I also learned they charge an entrance fee after 12:00 on the weekend.  So if you are going go early or check it out during the week.  

As we wander the markets we find a new treat….fruit on a stick covered with chocolate and I mean every kind of fruit you can think of….strawberries, pears, grape you name it and they have it…on a stick!  We returned to the Art Market in search of the doughnuts that you can have filled on the spot…this time I had the cream, the jelly is much better.   I need a break from the cold and we choose a random restaurant at the top of the market……it is in the cellar of the building and is worth the trip.  I however was too cold to get the name.  Sorry!  We return home after a day full of adventures.  I am loaded down with treasures for family and friends and in great need of a nap.  All this fresh cold air will wipe you out!  After a nice power nap it is time to decide on a restaurant for dinner.  An Italian restaurant in Aussere Neustadt came highly recommended.  Note there are many Italian restaurant in this area of town….so get an exact address or be prepared to just pick one and hope.  We did the later and were not disappointed.  I had a delicious Risotto Milanese …and how can you go wrong when there is a tree in the middle of the entrance

 A side note….I believe wine is cheaper than water in this part of the world!  Sunday is a family day in Germany and not much is open but Stephen and I ventured out in the “hood” we find a tapas bar that is open and advertising a buffet brunch.  We are not really looking for a buffet breakfast but decide a tea would be nice.  We wonder further and find Café Europa and decide to check out the menu.  I decide on the Italian breakfast which I think consists of a glass of Sparkling Wine, mozzarella, tomato, basil, ham, salami, butter and a basket of bread…..how can you go wrong!  My German “reading” omitted three eggs sunny side up….I really don’t like eggs but Stephen saved me.  He had a baguette with ham and cheese and a ham and cheese omelet he reported that both were wonderful.   He also noted he would have been fine with just one or the other but ordered both because he was not sure what he was going to get.   Mine worked nicely too after the eggs were on Stephen’s plate!  We spent the rest of the day planning our trips to Prague and Berlin.  Prague will be 24-12-2010 and Berlin will be 01-01-2011.  People might be wondering why not spend New Years Eve in on of these awesome locations......first it is super more expensive  and second I do not like to be out on New Years Eve.  One trip will be via car and other via train.  Stay tuned for that craziness!  Time for American football at Jim Beam’s after all my Eagles are playing the Giants.  I did the truly American thing and ordered a hamburger with pommes frites and a pilsner.  After all it was time for some football.    The hamburger had a slightly different texture than I am used to but overall a fun experience…..I even had Giant’s fan to fuss with when we pulled out the win.  Yes I said we don’t you know I too am a member of the Eagle’s organization.  Right now I am typing this from the Come on In Bistro and doing laundry…..I discovered the Bistro is very busy at lunch and has a different menu daily!  Tomorrow I am going to check out a museum and a castle and maybe the zoo because I think they are all in the same part of town!  Until tomorrow!

All my best,

Jill

A visit to AuBere Neustadt

Example of the architecture.

AuBere Neustadt

It is snowing again!  I bundle up and set off to get my nails done.  I have an appointment at 12:00 at the salon down the street.   The process and energy in the salon are very similar to salons in the states.  After my nails are done I decide to go further up the street to the bagel shop and have a bagel for lunch, there was also a notice of free wifi.  I decided on an oregano and parmesan bagel with herb cream cheese and a black tea.  I take my seat excited to play with my smart phone which has gotten very little uses so far this trip.  No luck with the wifi….bummer but the bagel is satisfying.  I should head back to the hotel and work on our Berlin and Prauge trips but I decide a little walk won’t hurt.  I head toward AuBere Neustadt the neighborhood adjacent to mine.   I have seen some of this area but it was while ride the #13 tram.   I turn right down Gorlitzer StaBe off of  Bischofs there are several restaurants and bars.  I review the posted menus which is really funny since they are all in German.  And my understanding of the German langue has not improved much.  As I make my way down the street I see a sign with a very interesting looking cow the sign say Kunsthof Passage so I make the right into what becomes a very cool group of courtyards full of shops.  Follow this link to learn more http://www.kunsthofpassage.de/.  A trip to Dresden should include a visit to this artisan haven.  OK, Stephen is home time to head to show him the Christmas Markets!  Have a great Friday night!

This was my favorite painting in the Kusthof Passage
The bar to the right is call the Tikki Bar.

All my best,

Jill

A day spent exploring Neustadt

An example of the architecture

Today I dedicated my day to learning about my “neighborhood”.   As noted in the title it is called the Neustadt. It is situated between Assuere Neustadt and an industrial area of the city.  It stopped snowing and the sun came out today but don’t be fooled it is still very cold.  I layer myself up and head out in the opposite direction of my tramp stop.  The architecture is a very beautiful in areas and very industrial in sections.  Early into my journey I realize I did not eat breakfast and am very hungry.   Upon the realization that I am hungry I find myself outside of Restaurant Pizzeria Florenz!  Pizza sounds perfect.  I enter and take my seat the waitress brings me cordial glass and explains that it is raisin wine……it did not sound like something that would taste great but I was pleasantly surprised.    I ordered a margarit pizza and a glass of white wine, dry.  The pizza comes and it is not bad given that I am in the heart of Saxony Germany.  I head back out on my journey to explore the “hood”    It is a wonderful mix of residential, gift shops, grocery store, cafes and other fun eateries.  I also find that the militärhistorisches museum Dresden is on the border.  Unfortunately it is closed till 2011 but it makes me wonder about the fact that Dresden was part of East Germany from 1945 till 1990.  This leads me to wonder about what happened to Dresden during World War II.  Since I know that the fun place I ate lunch on Monday was reduced to rubble.  I did some research on these topics and will share someday soon.   Feeling more comfortable in the hood I decide it is time to do laundry, how hard can it be?   I fill my backpack with the laundry and walk the three or so blocks up to Rudolf-Lenohard Strabe to the laundromat.   It looks like a typical Laundromat except everything is in German.  I fill two washers and look for the coin slot, no coin slot on the washers.  Hum, so I look around and find a panel on the wall with numbers, letters and coin slots.  Score!  I now realize I have no washer soap but notice a to my left there is a machine that has three cut out section that have plastic cups in the cut outs.  After further investigating I decide this is laundry soap but no coin slots.  OK, the panel on the wall must control everything.  This is when I learn that simply staring at the panel will not make the machines work.  Who would have thought……at this point a kind women say “I help?”  Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers.  My laundry is washing and I look around for a place to wait.  There is a restaurant next door that is called Come on In, so I do.  It looks like a very local place it is full of people laughing and enjoying each other’s company.  I take a seat, order a white wine dry and take out my computer to begin to do some work.  Forty minutes later I finish my wine and return to the laundromat and dry and fold my clothes without incident.   Tomorrow I am going to plan trips to Berlin and Prauge and then spend the afternoon and evening sharing the Christmas Markets with Stephen. 

I thought these window treatments were cleaver.

This was outside a local market.  You can get an oven roasted chicken and sides on the spot.

All my best,

Jill

The Christmas Markets day two

A tree in the Advent Market

So today I set out to learn more about the Christmas markets.  Please let it be noted it has not stop snowing since I arrived and the temperature keeps dropping.  The snow is getting too deep for my basic shoes so I have to resort to my Wellies with the minus 40 degrees wool socks, silk socks,  long underwear both top and bottom, leggings, fleece pullover, quilted vest, fleece scarf, fingerless gloves covered with fleece mittens and my coat.  Yes I look like the Michelin man in Red Wellies!  My appearance be damned I am going back to the markets and I am not going to be cold!  I waddle out of my hotel and down to the tram stop but trusty #3 is late…..very late.  Oh no here comes my nemeses the #13, but I now know that I can take the #13, get off at  Bautzner/Rothenburger, walk over to Albert platz and get the #3, or # 7 to the Synagoge stop and be at the market.  See I was not kidding when I said German is a difficult language to read on the fly!  Anyway I make it to the markets.  The first market I visit today is called Advent Auf Dem Neumarkt.  It too is full of vendor huts covered in pine branches and lights.  I realize this market has more food than the Altmarkt.  I wander the market taking in all the wonderful scents and then it occurs to me that I have been in German for three days and I have not had a sausage.   Decision made lunch today is a sausage, with grilled onion on a hard roll.  I am not let down by this traditional fare.  The sausage is a little spicy but the onion and roll are a perfect complement!  With my hunger handled for the moment I meander the market till I reach a hot mulled wine vendor.  I decide with a full stomach I can try a mulled wine.  This treat that warms me to the core.  I have been wondering why people have been congregating around these stands and not walking around with this wonderful treat.  Answer, the mugs are real and need to be returned to the vendor.   I wonder how much landfill space is saved by this simple process.  Warmed to the core by my mulled wine I head over to the other Christmas Market.   I believe it is called Mittelalter Weihnacht in Stallh of Dresden.  The Renaissance is alive and well at this market.  Market vendors include a blacksmith, an artisan glass blower, a tannery and of course a couple pubs complete with wenches and friars.  The whole energy of this market reminds me that this is the 576 annual Dresden Christmas Market.  That is correct the first market was held in 1434.  Coming from the US that just makes me go Wow, because we get excited about centennials this is a whole different world!  As I am leaving the Renisance market I notice a third market to my left.   Hum, I thought there were only three markets in Old City.  I march forward but realize I am frozen and need to find a spot to warm up before I venture any further.  I stop into the Café zuc Frevenkirche and have a glass of white wine dry and a crepe with marinated black currents, homemade marzipan curd cheese and fresh whipped crème.  Yes it is as good as it sounds!  While at the cafe I learn about Christstoller, which is a yeast made fruit cake with candies fruits and nuts.  Toes thawed I am ready to explore this mysterious fourth market.  The sign above the market read, Weihnachtsmarket an der Frauenkirch.  The top of the market….meaning the closest to the Café I just left seemed to be mostly local bars that have set up an outdoor shop to offer fun elixirs to market attendees but as I move further into the market I see vendors selling ornaments, dried fruit, roasted chestnuts, candles and everything else I could imagine.  Quite satisfied by my acquisition of knowledge for the day I head back to my hotel on the trusted #3 tram.  Tomorrow I  am going to explore the neighbor around my hotel and do laundry…that ought provide for some laughs!

All my best,

Jill

The scene at the Mittelalter Weinacht Market.

A vendor in the Weihnachtsmarket an der Frauenkirch.

Day two.....first trip to the Christmas Markets

Here is an example of the side of a vendor's shop.

Wow!  The colors, the smells, the people, the energy it is tremendous!  Everywhere you turn there is another idea of how to decorate a space.  There are pine branches everywhere, a star liked shape called a Hernbut_St hangs from every tree, lots of lights and ornament in every shape and style.  Today I decide to focus on the Altmarket. It is located in the lower portion of the Old City.  Everywhere I turn there is an artisan creating.  You can get anything from a hand strung brush to a hand carved statue.  The food is as diverse as the wares.  Sausages, flavored coffee, pastries and the smell of mulled wine is everywhere.  I decided to take a break from cold and warm up in a place called Speisekarte at the Haus Almark.....what a treat I found inside.  Everywhere you look it is red and gold! There is a film rolling that recounts the building's history......a true phoenix from the ashes tale. The building had basically been leveled during World War II.  I take a seat and review the menu, again I am greeted with a wide variety of options.  I choose the Bruschettta and a glass of Italian pinot grigio.  When the plate arrives it is so beautiful I almost take a picture to share but I think better.  Let's say it is both beautiful and yummy.  Now warmed up I set off to get some dessert in the market.  As noted above there are so many choice but I "settled" on a doughnut like treat that you can chose to have filled with jelly or cream.....I go with the the jelly but think seriously about having two as not to miss out on anything.  I spend the rest of the afternoon looking at ornaments, trying on furry hats and enjoying the energy of the market.  Tomorrow I am going to head to the other two markets in Old City.

Love this decoration idea.

The staircase in Speisekarte

Speisekarte's upstairs

All my best,

Jill

The tram adventure

A picture of I am not sure what...but it was pretty!

So I am ready to take on the Dresden tram......I have reviewed the map online.  I have my map from my first hotel and I have my all day ride pass.  What more could I need.  Um maybe a rudimentary knowledge of the German language!  I don't speak or read German.....nor to I possess the langage gene.  So I leave my new hotel and walk to the tram stop.  I get on the first tram that comes along.  Lucky #13 even though the lovely hotel staff say "Oh the # 3 will take you straight to the market."   Where is the adventure in going straight to the market?  Note: when I got on the tram I did not note the name of the station.  Big error!  So the tram is moving along and I am trying to compare the tram map on the wall with my hotel map of the "hot" spots.  At this moment I realize German is a very difficult language to "read" on the fly! I then decide I might need to get off the tram so I can better evaluate my situation.  I "jump" off  at the first spot that looks interesting.  There were fun shops and a bar or two.  So I am walking along trying to devise a plan when I see a shop call the English and American shop.......hum that might be a handy spot if I continue to be "lost".  But convinced I can do this on my own I press onward.  I turn a corner and find myself on a busy avenue full of wonderful bakery, and butcher shops, a wine shop and  thank goodness for small favors a book store.  I enter the book store with the great hope of a better map than my hotel's attempt to make Dresden seem very easy.  Yeah, a map that has better detail!  I give the wonderful man at the counter my 2 euro and ask with may map wide open......where am I?  He is very kind and points to a general area.  Hum, still not enough information so I decide to stop at one of the bake shops and have a cup of tea and a pretzel.  While there I evaluate my map and now realize I need the tram map but where do I get a tram map?  I remember the English and American store and head back to ask the burning question....where do I get a tram map.....because they are not on the tram, or at the tram stops.  So I enter the store and the shop keep is speaking to a customer in German....my sprites nose dive......but then when it is my turn she answers my hello with an american accent!  Score!  She drew me a map and got me to the round house at Albert plantz and I score my tram map!  Buoyed by my new tool I jump on the # 3 tram.  Yes!  I have this under control......I take my seat and travel a few stops and then realize I am in a residential part of town......and have no idea if I am heading north, south, east or west.....hum that is a problem!  I my defense it was snowing so the sun was no help!  I heard the lady driving the tram say next stop GroBen hainer Pl ......hum that sounds like the place my wonderful shop keeper said was super cool.....so I get off the tram.....it is the middle of nowhere!  a little bit of knowledge can be so dangerous!  Crap!  What do I do now?  I decide to walk back to the previous station and review the tram map!  I am there by myself and really get a chance to review the map.......a light bulb goes off and I get a clue!   It only took three trams passing and switching sides twice but I got it!  I  now know which trams going north and south and which go east and west.  I am still not sure of my original stop......but I am determined. As I wait for the north bound #3 tram I realize it is snowing harder and my feet got wet during my walk and I am very cold......a taxi whizzes past.....oh I could just jump in a taxi....but as quick as the thought entered my head, there it was my objective, the  north bound #3 tram!  I did not know which stop but I knew I needed north #3....I merrily board the yellow tram and find my seat.   I pass the GrBen stop, convinced that Trachen berger Pl was going to be my stop... because the #13....which got me into this mess and the #3 both have stops at that station.  But to my great surprise the approaching area looked familiar...it is my stop!  Liststr!  Yeah.....I am home!  I walked back to my hotel......and took a long hard study of the maps.  I am now off to the market!  On the #3 south bound tram!

Trip to Dresden....getting there

Found out on Thursday December 9, 2010 that I was traveling to Dresden Germany on Saturday December 11th till January 4, 2011.  The scramble was on to get house and dogs taken care of during the trip, get some warmer clothes, and pack.  Mission accomplished ready to go at 5:00 pm December 11, 2010 for a 7:45 pm flight out of RIC,  to connect with a 9:45 pm flight out of Dulles.  We got to the airport super early to find out that our 7:45 pm flight is running late out of Chicago.  We only had an hour layover in Dulles and would not make our connection if we wait for this flight.   When life gives you lemons, make lemon drops!  We rented a car and drove to Dulles....made it to the gate with fourteen minutes to spare.   Yeah!  And away we go to Frankfurt.....long flight not great movies and not enough water.  Note to self grab a couple of bottles for the trip home!  Landed in Frankfurt at 11:50 connection 13:00.  Off the plane, on the tram, through passport control, through a crazy long security line, chosen as a random pat down......oh so personal, we got to the gate at 12:50.....flight was already gone.  No kidding you can't make this up....... OK out to the main corridor to get re-ticketed. Next flight 16:45......back through security....again chosen to  receive a random pat down search.......... it is so time for some wine!  I had a lovely glass of white wine.....super yummy I believe it was from the Burgundy region of  France....so good I had another and a giant pretzel.  Off to the gate......we do not want to miss this flight.  Boarding started at 16:00 in the air by 16:30.  Note to those traveling in Germany anytime soon.  Be early!  We arrived in Dresden around 15:45, picked up our luggage, which made it, and get our rental car.  Out to the garage to pick up the car, it is a standard transmission, oh it has been so long since we have driven a standard.  Ten minutes later we have "mastered" the transmission and are off.  30 minutes later through the snow with less than accurate directions we arrive at our hotel. Park the car, in to lobby to check it........you guessed it, no record of our reservation, but the front desk server was wonderful and got us into a room around 16:45.  It was quite an adventure getting here but it is super beautiful!  Tomorrow I will recap my attempt to learn the tram system.  Oh did I note,  I do not speak or read a word of German!
Best wishes,
Jill